By Sinead Hultman
I am not sure when or where I learned about the Troubles, I just know the strife between the Protestants and Catholics in Northern Ireland has always been a part of my bank of knowledge. Maybe I learned it from Bono—The Joshua Tree was my favorite album growing up.
Either way, I grew up with a sense that Northern Ireland was best to be avoided. I knew that on St. Patrick’s Day I was to wear orange like a good little Protestant—my father’s side lost their religion sometime after they came to America, and my mother’s side was Presbyterian. As a child, I never fully understood the conflict, I just knew I was going to be subjected to lots of pinching once a year.
As a history nerd, I knew I had to make the day trip to Belfast. I couldn’t miss an opportunity to explore and area rife with cultural and historical value, and it would be neat to see where the Titanic was built, too.
Driving in to the city, our tour guide pointed out a mural that served as a warning to Catholic citizens. My eye was immediately drawn to a masked figure with a machine gun, which contrasted so violently with the cheery blue background.
We took a Black Taxi Tour through the segregated Protestant and Catholic areas of the city, and our local guide provided us with insight into the situation. Each area seemed depressed and slummy and the tension was palpable.
Our driver explained that there was a push for peace, starting with less political and religious murals. However as we drove past what he dubbed the Irish Berlin Wall, it did not seem like a realistic goal.
Overall, I am glad I made the trip to Belfast. I am still quite shocked at what I found there though. In my mind, conflict such as this makes sense in the Middle East and not in the United Kingdom. Our driver’s comparison of the situation to Israel and Palestine did not seem far off.
I suppose such sweeping generalizations have never led to anything good, though. If I want to become a true world traveler, I need to learn to keep a more open mind.
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